Gaui X3L Build


I have been thinking about getting an X3L for quite a while now, and for Christmas this year, my husband decided to get me one.
I received it from FedEx yesterday (12-23-16) but I didn`t start the build until today (12-24-16).

The X3L has a very low parts count, and it goes together very quickly. The quality of the kit is everything you would expect from Gaui, and the fit and finish of the parts is fantastic.

The manual, is a little different. It`s just a folded piece of paper with the instruction printed on both sides. Not what I`m used to, but it was not difficult to follow it by any means.

Upon opening the parts bag, I noticed that all of the hardware bags are numbered, and labeled with the diameter and length of the screws. Which saves time by not having to measure and separate them.

The build started with the main bearing blocks/servo mounts, and the frame stiffeners. This was a simple process, involving pushing the bearings into their housings, and installing a carbon fiber plate to hold the bearing blocks in place.

Frames, motor mount and the tail book mount were next to go on. Along with the frame stiffeners.

Once The frame was built, it was time to get it on its feet, and install the landing gear. I`m really not a fan of the fin style landing gear, so I`ll most likely be putting standard X3 skids on mine. Like most, I fly on an all grass flying field, and I`m a little concerned that the fins will catch the grass on takeoff/landing.

With the landing gear installed, it was time to get the main shaft, head, tail belt and the main and auto rotation gears in place. This step can be a little tricky, because there are a couple of spacers that must be put in the top of the auto rotation sleeve that contact the upper main bearing. One of the spacers is .05mm, and the other is .01mm, and it is very easy to damage them while trying to slip them into place. I used a dab of clear silicon grease to hold them onto the sleeve while I slid the assembly into the frames. Then I used a 1.5mm hex driver to reach in from the top of the upper bearing to line them up so I could slide the main shaft in.

Installing the head was nothing special. it came pre-assembled, but I never...ever rely on the factories putting loc-tite, grease...ect. in the parts when they assemble them. So I always take everything apart and redo it myself, so I know it`s been done.

Moving on. The tail boom, and tail boom cover were next to go on, and I must say that this step is a bit of a pain. You have to put the tail boom on, put the push rod on, and then install the cover. Here is where it gets fun. being a belted tail you have to push the boom in a little to keep the belt loose while installing the tail output shaft. This leaves you only about 1/2" of tail boom sticking out from the rear of the boom cover, and it`s not enough to get hold of to pull the tail boom back out to tension the belt.

* Tech tip* Once you get the tail box into place and the output shaft is through the belt..install and tighten the two screws which hold the vertical fin on, and use the tail box as a "handle" to slide the boom out to where it needs to be.*

Once the boom is pulled out, you can loosen the vertical fin screws, push the tail box in to where is needs to be and pin it. Then the belt can be tensioned, and the tail rotor can be installed.

The whole airframe  build took only a few hours, and all that is left now are the electronics. The airframe with Zeal 360mm carbon fiber blades and the Gaui stock tail blades weighs in at 1.49 pounds.

This was a fun little build, and I can hardly wait to get the electronics in it and get it test flown.

Charging case volume 2


Last month I blogged about my new charging case, and how excited I was to build it and put it through its paces. The charger is working 100% flawlessly, and I could not be happier. But it was missing something. I was wasting the potential of this awesome piece of equipment, by charging only one battery at a time per channel.

Therefore, I decided to get with the program and start parallel charging. I purchased a couple of EC5 parallel board kits from Progressive RC, and got busy installing  them when they arrived on of all days.....Halloween.

I assembled the boards, and set them in place to make sure everything was going to work the way I planned before I mounted them in. Thankfully I did that, because the case lid would not close completely because the EC5 connectors were too high with the boards assembled.

No problem! I just disassembled them, and put the EC5 boards beside the balance boards and now the lid closes, and all the connectors are easy to get to.

In addition to the boards, I purchased four 12" balance lead extensions from Progressive, and build four 12" charge lead adapters to go from the EC5s on the boards to the XT-150s on my batteries. The last thing I did, was to add an on/off switch....which I should have done in the beginning. Hind sight is always 20/20, I guess.

Building this case has been a lot of fun for me, and has definitely been a rewarding experience. Who knows what I might decide to add to it in the future....maybe a tablet?

Charging Case


For four years, I have been using a Dynamite Ultra Duo battery charger to keep my machines flying. The Dynamite charger has been a wonderful piece of equipment, but it recently gave up and needed to be replaced.

Instead of buying another Ultra Duo, I decided to get with the program, and build a real charging case. The project started with a Plano brand handgun case from Walmart, which is very similar to the more expensive pelican cases. They are high quality cases and I use them for everything...battery cases, transmitter cases, and charger cases and more.

Next came the power supply and charger. My husband noticed I was looking at them online, and took it upon himself to order a charger and power supply for me for my cool was that?

The charger is a Revolectrix Dual powerLab PL8, purchased from Progressive RC. The power supply is a Juice Box (made by Strick Model Products) 1800 watt, 75A, 24volt power supply.

I received the charger and power supply in a few days, and immediately got to work on the case. For the deck lid, I used 1/4" sanded birch plywood. I carefully cut the deck lid out to the shape of the case, test fitting and trimming until I had a perfect fit.

Next, I measured the charger and fans so I could start laying out the holes I would need to cut to mount everything in the deck. Once all the holes were cut, I covered the plywood deck with carbon fiber vinyl wrap which we purchased on Amazon.

Now came the installation and wiring of all of the equipment in the case. That was actually the easy part. Since the charger is flush mounted in the deck, I had to install banana jacks in the deck to be able to plug in my charge leads. I used 60mm 24v fans, which work amazingly well at keeping the air moving through the case,.

The power supply was very easy to secure. I just made a couple of aluminum brackets, padded with loop side self stick velcro to clamp it to the bottom of the case.

I think it turned out fairly well for my first attempt at building a charging case, but I`m sure I will be making a few changes as I discover better ways to do things. So far, it seems to be working great, and I can`t wait to use it at the next helicopter event.

Here is a list of all the components I used:

Case: Plano Gun Guard

1/4" birch plywood

Carbon fiber vinyl wrap

FMA Dual PowerLab PL8X2

Juice Box 1800W, 75A, 24V power supply

Two 60mm 24V cooling fans

Two sets of banana jacks

Two standard balance boards 2s-6s

Gaui NX7 and YS96 SRX Tareq engine.


Today, (July 4th 2016) I got to the field at about 07:30 and immediately started flying my NX7. By 09:30, I had already put six flights on it with the YS96 SRX Tareq engine and YS Power Pipe.

I am still running the engine very rich, and even though it is not completely tuned yet, it is still making a ton of power. I spent from 07:30 til about 15:00,  flying it back to back. Pausing only long enough between flights to let the engine cool down. I lost count of the number of flights I got in today, but I did burn almost two gallons of 30% Rotor Rage....the second gallon has maybe one flight worth of fuel in it.

I don`t have a flight timer set in my transmitter, but I`m guessing the flights are somewhere around 5.5-6 minutes on a blubbery rich engine. I hope the flight times will increase once the engine is tuned for power, but if not, I won`t complain. I do plan to run it a tad on the rich side anyway, since YS engines don`t mind running rich.

I have heard some say that the YS96 is a hard engine to tune, but I really have to respectfully disagree. I`m finding that it is quite easy to get and keep a tune on it. It also starts up very quickly and easily as well, using 30% nitro and an Enya #3 glow plug.

I really like this engine and pipe combination, and I think I will like it even more when I get it tuned. Once I get the tune dialed in, I will post my needle settings in a new blog post. Gaui NX7+YS96SRX Tareq engine+ YS Power Pipe= a winning combination.

NX7 Update


I finally got the YS Power Pipe to complete the engine change in my Gaui NX7 yesterday. I got around to installing them and the helicopter up today, and I`m really happy with how the pipe looks on the helicopter.

I have to say that the finish on the pipe is a lot nicer than the finish on the Hotri pipes I have been using, and I hope it works as good as it looks. One of the nicest features of the YS Power Pipe, is the fact that it has a solid mount instead of a header. Also, the mounting screws go through the pipe mount and screw into the engine`s exhaust port. Which makes mounting the pipe a whole lot easier.

I did not get a chance to run the engine today, due to rain. But I will try and get to the field after work tomorrow to set/fine the throttle end points, and possibly make a few flights with it. Weather permitting, of course.

I will post more about the pipe and motor as I get it dialed in over the course of the next couple of weeks.